Relais d’Arpette

Relais d’Arpette Experience

Photos & Write Up Contributed by: Therese Drapeau

Relais D’Arpette is situated 30 minutes past Champex- Lac (anti- clockwise). The packed path follows a meandering stream uphill and is well marked.  There is access by road as well.  At the end of the track and at the foothills of the mountain sits the compound of Relais D’Arpette.  They offer dorms, tenting, and private rooms, some of which are located in the 2 adjacent buildings.  Check-in is at 16:00.

Reservations are done online and paid in advance.  Our reserved room with balcony and private washroom did not, in fact, have a balcony or private washroom.  It was situated on the ground floor of an adjacent building overlooking the parking area.  We did have a lovely heater, though, for which we were thankful after the neighboring room told us they did not.  Our shared washroom for 4 people had unlimited hot showers.  Our double room had an en suite sink and plenty of power charging outlets.

The boot room, dorm showers, and community restrooms are located on the bottom level of the main building. The restrooms were renovated and super clean, with ample soap.  Upstairs in the main hall, there are large community tables and a fireplace. You can order drinks and snacks from the well stocked bar and enjoy the view of the mountains. In nicer weather, outdoor seating is available.  Credit cards are accepted with a small upcharge for their use.  Euro coins are not accepted.  We bought a 26 Swiss Franc half-liter bottle of wine, which converted to 29 Euro; but remember, no coins! So we paid 30 Euro.

The buffet style dinner is chaotic and vegan, offering carrots, shredded beets, and green beans with house dressing, and rice with lentil stew; my sweet tooth felt unsatiated by the whole apples and oranges offered for dessert.  The tables around us buzzed with conversation until guests were sleepy enough to retire to their rooms. 

Breakfast is a casual buffet also; sliced bread and butter, yogurt with a selection of add-ons such as nuts, granola, cocoa muesli, and pumpkin seeds. The pumpkin seeds were a treat as we had not seen those on our trek yet!  For those heading to Fenetre d’Arpette, it would be good to have extra snacks on hand for the day; we were walking to La Fouly and had a lovely mid-morning croissant at Issert, where they accepted our as yet unused Euro coins.

Relais D’Arpette gives the impression of a once grand lodge having seen its better days, much like the hotel in The Shining.   There is an awkwardness that permeates the air.  Staff is not unkind, but perhaps disaffected.  First time guests entering the front door are escorted in their full hiking regalia to the boot room, located by trekking through the dining hall where backpacks and poles are not allowed.  The dinner buffet line snakes through the kitchen into the outdated conference room, where a lack of clear direction melts into slight chaos. Maybe we just missed the dessert table?

Additional Note:  I contacted Relais d’Arpette 4 days later to inquire about the overcharge on the room and was given a refund for the difference in price.